'I went down to Captain Tony's
To get out of the heat.
I heard a voice call out to me
Son come have a seat.
I had to search my memory
As I looked into those eyes.
Our lives change like the weather
But a legend never dies...'
Photo by: Jen Lawinski
Seeing the ice in clear skies was a hell of a reward for the heavy weather yesterday. Thus far we’ve stopped to admire two big bergs from close range, bringing in ICEBEAR under power (the wind, after all that fuss, shut down completely around 1200 noon as we rounded Cape Race) to within a hundred yards or so. I put the drone up to get a bird’s eye view, and the crew stopped to admire the beauty of nature’s most striking sculpture. Both bergs we stopped for had at some point in their decay rolled, for the tops of them were pure white and smooth as marble, highlighted in spots by deep turquoise cracks where they’d broken apart and re-frozen during their lifespan.
This has been all over my Facebook page the past couple of days, thanks to Kevin King, who crewed with us and took the footage. When the whale first approached, we were in awe, and just enjoyed his company. Kevin wanted to film right away, but I kind of discouraged him - if you're always behind the camera, you can't appreciate what's right in front of you. But the whale kept coming back! I was afraid jamming the camera down in the water might scare him off (he thinking it might be a harpoon!), but eventually we gave it a go. I think it was worth it!
This was written yesterday, posted today (Monday). Photos below.
We arrived into St. Croix yesterday afternoon after what I think was probably the easiest passage I’ve ever done. We sailed on starboard tack the whole way, broad reaching in anywhere from 8-25 knots, and only motoring for one hour, through a pretty calm spot when the sails were banging around and we had to roll up the jib.
I will have WAY more to say about this in due time, but wanted to post it immediately. Thanks to Dave for sharing - you know who you are. Might we have finally reached a tipping point when it comes to taking offshore sailing seriously, instead of a ride to warmer weather?
I just had an interesting email exchange with a friend whose in the (years-long) process of outfitting his boat for extended ocean cruising. The boat is similar to Arcturus, and we have similar ideas about things, and somehow got in touch a few years back. Anyway, we've had several of these types of exchanges. I won't say who it is out of respect for his privacy, but I want to publish my response to his latest email about rigging, sails and engines. I'll preface each section with what I'm about to discuss, but won't include anything specific that he's emailed me. What's your take?
11:18pm. We're back on NYC time since departing Bermuda this morning. After only one full day ashore, we're back to sea again on Blue Heron for the return journey to the USA mainland. The short respite was pretty nice actually - not enough time to get fully acclimated to land life again, so we still have our sea-legs.
Less than ten miles to Town Cut now and St George's harbor. It's the first real calm morning we've had the entire trip, or at least since turning the corner off Hatteras and aiming for Bermuda. We're unfortunately motor boating this last home stretch. There is a boat behind us under spinnaker, part of the Bermuda 1-2 Race. He's putting us to shame, and he's sailing solo!
Imagine tossing a chicken carcass into a cage of hungry wolves, I think that’s a good idea of what feeding time looks like on a lot of offshore racers and delivery boats. As cook, on a sea going racer, you need not worry about comparisons to the finer restaurants in town. The ingredients for success are simple; two large deep pots, garlic and onions, a little planning, and variety, and watch your fingers at feeding time.
Enjoy some photos from the day for now, and look for a couple of podcasts to follow in the next weeks. One other cool, unexpected person we met was sailing photographer Billy Black, whom we ate lunch with on the TP52 after the day's sailing. He was in the chase boat. Hope to have him on the podcast too, so stay tuned!
Mia and I never really thought this day would come. But just yesterday, we delivered Isbjorn to Annapolis from Connecticut, and our sailing careers officially evolved. Alas, like a good woman, my heart can't be with two boats. I only hope I can find the perfect owner for Arcturus so she can continue the adventures we started on her.
It's another late night on watch while I type this. 0121 on Saturday morning. Weather in the 50s, a definite chill in the air, lots of lightning on the horizon in the south. Downwind, a few stars out overhead. But I'm not sailing...rather am in the wheelhouse - sitting in the leather helm seat to be specific - of the MY 'Azure', a 53-foot Selene Ocean Trawler. We're steaming south on the Chesapeake, abeam of Point No Point now and bound towards Portsmouth.
If you've been following my recent posts you might wonder if I've entered some kind of time warp. Only two days ago I was offshore of Virginia Beach, on the final leg of Sojourner's trip north and back home. We'd crossed the Guff Stream and saw the water temps drop from the 80s to the 50s and then high 40s quite quickly.
'Just need a mermaid sighting now,' said Jim from his bunk.
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0340 Tuesday morning. That conversation happened yesterday. I was on watch in the afternoon, alone, the rest of the crew napping down below. It was great napping conditions...warm, calm sea, broad reaching, just a gentle rocking to knock you right out. 'Whale!'
Position 7 April 2015, 8.30 am
35° 39’N / 075° 22’W
Mmm, hurricane eggs! Just polished off the last of the fresh Bahamian bread we got from Tom's baker Vernon in Hope Town. Man that's good!
We knew the weather was coming long before we ever left Marsh Harbor.
Position: April 6, 2015 8.30 am
33°00’N / 075°51’W
Wind: ESE 15-20kt
Boat Speed: 8 kt (can you tell they are riding the Gulf Stream?)
3:05 am, April 4. I'm sitting in the cockpit, facing aft. The full moon is lighting up the boat from the port stern quarter - you can easily do any deck work without a flashlight and could probably read a book by the moonlight. There are some puffy clouds scattered about.
Like to come along on a trip, check out the 2015-2016 calendar.
Yesterday, before the guys got here, my dad and I took the ferry over to Hope Town. It's known for the old 1800's lighthouse with red and white stripes, that still burns a kerosine light to this day. Retired Senator Tom Harkin of Iowa lives there when he's not in DC. Tom sailed with me on both legs of the Serenity passage from BVI-Tortola and back in February, and I've gotten to become pretty good friends with him.